Starting Seeds
The seed catalogs have arrived and the home improvement stores have placed their starting kits by the front door. The time has come for starting seeds. While seeds can be directly sown outdoors, some actually preferring this, why not get a head start on the growing season and a little green thumb workout at the same time? You can certainly wait and buy tomato, pepper, and many other plants partially grown and then transplant them in your garden, but this will limit your choice of varieties and perhaps your satisfaction of doing it all by yourself.
To start seeds indoors usually involves special lighting. A sunny windowsill won’t do the job. Garden catalogs feature various shelving systems complete with fluorescent grow lights. If you can afford such a system, buy the one that best suits your needs and space availability. For those of you who would rather build your own, take a look at the model below.
Seed Starting Shelf for Less than $40
This seed starting shelf was built to allow adjustment of the grow lights. The optimum distance between lights and the tops of plants is 2 inches.
How To Build It
You will need:
4-2″x3″s
1-2″x4″
24″x52″piece of plywood
decking screws
8 feet small-link chain, cut into 2-foot lengths
4 hooks
2 shop lights
4 fluorescent bulbs for plants OR 2 “cool” and 2 “warm” spectrum bulbs
1. Cut each 2×3 into 52 inches and 44 inches. The 44 inch pieces will serve as the four posts and the 52 inch pieces will run horizontally, two at the top and two 18 inches from the bottom.
2. Cut the 2×4 into four equal pieces, 24 inches each. These will connect and brace the frame at each end.
3. To make each long side, use all 2×3 sections. Screw through the 44 inch section to attach the 52 inch sections at the very top and 18 inches from the bottom.
4. Connect the long sides with the 2×4 pieces. Position the one at the top flat;the one near the bottom, on its side.
5. Attach two hooks on the underside of each top 2×4 piece. Hang lights from hooks with chains lengths.
6. Put plywood piece in place to form shelf.
Materials for Starting Seeds
Plastic pots, clay pots, peat pellets, plastic cell packs – don’t be overwhelmed by the choices for seed starting containers. While each has its pros and cons (e.g. plastic cell packs are covenient, but may not be suitable to use again next year) choose what is right for you according to what you want to start and the space available to you.
Using a sterile starting medium is very important. Potting soil won’t do. Read the bag: don’t buy anything that contains compost or topsoil. Such a mixture may contain microorganisms which will harm your seedlings. Do look for spanghum peat, which will provide absorption and organic content.
How to Get (Seeds) Started
Make a chart/list of what you intend to grow and the appropriate dates for starting, planting depth, and transplanting. You can get most of your information from the back of each seed packet. You also need to know the last frost date for your area, which you can learn most accurately from your county extension office or by visiting www.victoryseeds.com/frost.
| Seed | Time Before Transplant | When to Sow | Transplant Date | Seed Depth |
| tomato | 6-8 weeks | March 18 | May 6 | 1/4 inch |
| pepper | 8 weeks | March 11 | May 6 | 1/4-1/2 inch |
| eggplant | 8 weeks | March 25 | May 15 | 1/4-1/2 inch |
| pumpkin | 3 weeks | April 18 | May 9 | 1 inch |
As each sowing date arrives, pour planting mix into a large container (dishpan or bucket) and moisten. Fill planting containers and gently press down, so that mix is 1/2 inch from top. Sow seeds at appropriate depths. Since not every sown seed will grow, plant double your desired yield and then remove weaker seedlings when they are 1/2-1 inch in height.
Read seed packets carefully for germination requirements. Some seeds need light to germinate, others do not. Dusting sown seeds with a light layer of fine sand will block light and may keep plants from suffering from “damping off”. (Damping off occurs when seedlings suddenly topple over at soil level. This can also be due to overcrowding.) Keep sown seeds covered with plastic wrap (or plastic cover if your container comes with one) until seedlings emerge. Mist with a spray bottle or keep container on rocks in another container so you can water from the bottom.
Store your seed packets in airtight containers, such as glass jars, in the refrigerator. You may need to refer to the seed packets for future growing information and the cold temperatures will ensure a second sowing of seeds. Keep seeds dry by adding a desiccant such as silica gel (available at craft stores) to the bottoms of the jars.
Once seedlings emerge they need 16 hours of light per day. Air circulation is also important. Keep a small fan running nearby for fresh air and to insure sturdy plant growth. Transplant seedlings to larger containers as needed. Healthy plants need ample space for good roots.
A few days, or even up to a week, before you transplant your seedlings outside, “hardening off” needs to take place. Place your seedlings outdoors for a few hours a day (increase time as days progress) in a somewhat protected, partly sunny location. This will acclimate your plants to the great outdoors. On the last day of hardening off, place them in their proper garden locations for several hours.
When you are ready to transplant your seedlings outside, consult your seed packets for spacing requirements. At this point, you are probably “direct-sowing” seeds in the garden as well. Give yourself a pat on the back – you are well on your way to beautiful, tasty produce.
